Tutorial: Hand Stamped Sterling Silver Jewelry

Thanks to Kiwi of KiwiandKiki on Etsy for this awesome tutorial!


My latest addiction - once I learned how to make my own hand stamped sterling silvery jewelry (so easy!) I knew I had to share it with the world. One thing I learned while trying to find information on this craft was that it is hard to find information about it! :) This tutorial will outline the basic tools you need, and help you get started with how to use your tools.

Basic Tools:

You will need a mallet (or some people prefer to use a regular hammer), steel bench block, 600 grit sandpaper, polishing pads, design stamp (I use a snowflake stamp in this tutorial), black permanent marker (for the oxidizing look), 1/2 inch 24 gauge sterling silver disc, 1.7mm hole punch pliers, a sterling silver jump ring (sizes vary, use the size that you like best) and a necklace chain (I am using an 18" 1.2mm sterling silver ball chain.

Okay, after seeing that list, you should be getting the idea that this is not an inexpensive hobby/craft. It will take a little investment in the beginning, but it will pay off when you are creating beautiful pendants that people charge a lot of money for.

Okay- let's get started!

Step 1: Start by placing your sterling silver disc on the steel bench block. Place your design stamp carefully in the desired place on the disk. For this small pendant, I'll place the design slightly below the middle of the disc, so that when the hole is punch on the top, it still looks centered.

Step 2: Firmly hit your mallet against the design stamp several times, to ensure your design has been stamped into the sterling silver disc. You want to make sure you get it right the first time - otherwise, it would be difficult to place it perfectly back on top of the design to stamp it again.

Step 3: Using your hole punch pliers, place your disc in the hole punch, lining the disc up so that the hole will be place properly. Squeeze the punch tightly - if you don't do this correctly, you could end up damaging the disc, and you'll want to start all over again.

Step 4: This is the step that makes your design image pop off of the disc - to give your silver the "oxidized" look, we're going to cheat a little by using a black permanent marker to mark in the grooves of the design. When you are done, it will look something like the picture at right.

Step 5: Use the fine grit sandpaper to smooth off all edges of the disc, and then follow it up with the polishing pad. As you work the polishing pad over the design area, it will polish off the excess black marker, leaving your disc beautifully polished and your design will stand out on the disc.

Step 6: Add your jump ring and necklace chain (or you could make several of these and add them to a charm bracelet), and you are finished! Here is an up-close picture of my finished product. This particular sized disc also works well for single letter.

Thanks Kiwi! :)

Crayon Roll Tutorial

Crayon Rolls are the perfect gift for so many ages and so easy to personalize with a favorite character or color.

What you will need:

¼ yd print fabric

¼ yd coordinating fabric (for the inside)

thread

Pen Quilting or chalk

Ruler

How to:

1. cut out a 6” x 16 ½” rectangle and a 5” x 16 ½” rectangle from the print fabric and then a second 5 x 16 ½” rectangle from the coordinating fabric (inside fabric)

2. Set the two 5 x 16 ½” rectangles to the side. Fold the 6” rectangle in half and sew long ends together to hold in place. You now have a 3" x 16 1/2" rectangle.

3. Mark 17 lines ¾” apart on the folded rectangle. These mark the stitch line for the crayon pockets.

4. Placed the folded and marked print fabric onto the coordinating fabric matching one long edge and ends as below, pin in place.

5. Stitch along marks reinforcing ends of each line.

6. Place last rectangle on top of the others with right sides together and stitch around 3 sides leaving one short edge open for turning.

7. Take a business car and cut the top off at an angle to make an arrow shape. Cut 1 arrow of print fabric and 1 of the coordinating fabric.

8. stitch right sides together, turn rightside out and press flat. Set aside.

9. Carefully fold 1/4" of the unfinished edge of the crayon roll over to create a smooth edge, press. Then place arrow's flat end into the open end of the crayon roll, pin in place and sew along edge closing the opening.

Now here you can change it up if you like. I add a button hole and a button to the outside of crayon roll, but you can put ribbon instead of the arrow, or a zipper, Velcro, snaps, whatever you please and think your child will enjoy more. Get creative and have fun!!!!

Making Flowers from Old Drink Cans!

Wild Flowers by FLUTTERBRUSH This is a really simple but delightful art project for almost any age, using recycled materials. These whimsical 3-D Aluminum Can Flowers can be hung on the wall or displayed in a vase with a wire stem. Younger kids may have trouble cutting the aluminum and hammering holes, but can get help from mom or dad. You might think that these cans would be sharp, but they are not. I've never gotten more than a scratch. The cans can be cut with scissors- even kid's scissors. I use an old pair that I don't care about. Of course, kids should always be supervised! Materials: 3 aluminum cans, different sizes (a tall can is nice to have) washed and dried old scissors acrylic paint and brushes phillips screwdriver hammer 3- 4" piece of wire for hanging Directions: 1. Cut the top off the cans: 2. Cut strips to bottom of cans- vary width and number, trim ends if you like: 3. Use hammer and screwdriver to make holes in the bottom of the can. (Put the can you are punching over a stack of newspapers so you don't damage your table.) You will need to punch at least two holes that line up and go through all 3 cans to thread the wire through and hold them together, but don't thread them till after they are painted. I also put decorative holes in the bottom to add interest and layers. Punching center decorative hole: Only the bottom can has the threading holes punched, the other two cans still need to be lined up and punched: 4. Paint each section and let dry. I always hold one over the other to see what they will look like. 5. Thread the wire through and twist on the back to make a loop for hanging. Touch up wire with paint. You can see the outside of the can is not painted. People are amazed when they find out what these are made of! Hang as is on the wall, or attach to long wire and put in a pot. ENJOY! Kris http//:www.FlutterBrush.etsy.com

Save Money Swiffering!

1.Get a package of microfiber towels. You can find these in the automotive section of most stores. They are made of 80% Polyester and 20% Polyamide

2. If you are using a green Swiffer (dry) all you have to do is trim the towels to fit your swiffer and stick the ends into the holes on top. You can serge it if you like but microfiber generally does not fray.

3. If you are using the purple Swiffer (wet) all you have to do it tri-fold the towels and sew a few lines across to turn the towel into a pad:

You won't need many rows - just enough to keep the pad stable once it gets wet.

The purple Swiffers have velcro on the bottom that sticks perfectly to your microfiber pad and will hold it in place without you having to sew velcro to your pad itself.

It takes less than a minute to make the wet pads and will be a big money saver if you have laminate or tile floors and swiffer a lot. The microfiber attracts dust and hair when wet and is very absorbent. It also is easy to wash and quick to dry. A very economical solution to reduce waste and save money!

from Karin's blog: www.dominopads.blogspot.com

Bath Bomb Tutorial

Very Basic recipe (there are tons on the net)

• 11/2cup baking soda
• 1/2 cup citric acid
• fragrance
• water soluble dye

Measure out your baking soda in a wide container. For this tutorial i did 2 colors so just put half in each container. Mash it up to make sure its nice and smooth with no clumps or lumps. Yes i used a potatoe masher.

next add a drizzle of your water soluble dye into each container. Im using cherry and iced lemon.

Mix it really good. I use the masher to get it lightly mixed then get your hands in ther and squish it up good.

Now your ready to add your fragrance. Drizzle it in like you did with the dye and mix again. Use your hands and work it real good. Ok that makes me sound like a perv.LOL

If your adding moisturizing oils and butters you would do that now but if not move on to the next step.I didnt take a pic of this step since i only supplied with a bare basic recipe.

Now very last you want to add your citric acid. You do this so the liquids dont set of your fizzy action.

Mix it with your masher and hands again make sure there are no clumps.

Have your mold and everything ready im making tablet shapes in a pvc pipe.

Spritz your mixture with alcohol just enough to get it damp and hold together like sand.Mix it quick before it sets off the fizz.

Scoup it into your mold. i fill mine about 1/2 full which is about 4 loose tablespoons.

Smoosh it down. You want to make sure they are packed nice and tight. Unmold. Then when your all done keep them away from humidity till they dry. Do a little dance to keep the humidity gremlins away and pray they come out like this.

Of course you could just say for get it and order from me. ;o)

Robyn

My Etsy Shop My Blog

Pink Sugar Body Scrub

Pink Sugar Body Scrub
8-10oz's

plastic or glass bowl
wooden or plastic spoon
measuring cup
fragrance of your choice (I used Pink Sugar Aquolina type for this recipe)
*if you choose not to use fragrance it still gives off a lovely natural honey smell*
1 1/4 cup of sugar or sugar in the raw (organic sugar)
2 tbsp cocoa butter
1/8 mineral oil
1/4 teaspoon of ground apricot seeds (or what ever exfoliant tickles your fancy!)
2 teaspoons of honey (i use organic honey)
1 tbsp of rice bran oil (oils can be substituted to your liking)


You first want to make sure you have all of your ingredients ready to go!!

Melt down your 2 tbsp's of cocoa butter and your set!

Using either a glass or plastic bowl empty in all of your OILS first and mix good.

Once mixed good add in your liquid (melted down) cocoa butter and mix some more!

Next add your sugar in.

What I do is add a few tablespoons at a time so I can see the oils soaking up the sugar.

Once all the sugar is in it *should* be smooth yet grainy. If you find that you have too much oil feel free to add more sugar!!

Add your fragrance and additives (I use apricot grounds and honey) and your done!!

When I am done, I DO NOT like to have a lot of access oil so that is the reason for the great amount of sugar! If you like oil to settle to the top do not add a lot of sugar if you do not like oil at the top add more sugar!!

Wrap nicely, package and give as a gift!

Hand-made Bath & Body products, with many extra's to tickle your fancy! Visit me by clicking my link below............

Diaper Prefold 101

If you have looked around about cloth diapers you can recite the benefits in your sleep. The health for baby, environment, the cost... But sometimes it's hard to figure out how to put them on. This fun and instructional tutorial video shows various folds and how to execute them!

Repurposed Pillowcase Style dress from An Old Shirt by Rockerchic

So many people love to repurpose! I know that I do! Heres a great way to show Dad how much you care on Fathers day!

You can take an old shirt that belongs to him, or Grandpa for that matter, and let your little princess wear it on Father's Day!

Heres what you need:
Iron and Ironing board
Sewing Machine
Serger
Seam Ripper

Materials:
Old Shirt (long or short sleeve)
Spool of coordinating ribbon

Start out with your shirt laying flat. It's probably better to pick out a shirt that is of a more feminine color, but make sure it is a man's shirt... women's shirts are darted and curved and mens are more straight, that makes it easier to make the dress from.

The first thing your going to do: Take off the pocket. Remove the pocket, carefully so as not to put holes in your shirt, so we can move it and place it lower on the shirt later.

The Second thing: Cut the sleeves off. Cut below the line where the seams are, go ahead and cut them both off.

This is what your shirt should look like now:
Now, it's time to measure the length of your dress. Take your tape measure and mark where you want the length to be, from the bottom. I wanted mine to be 19 inches long from the neckline to the hem. So I measured 20 inches, marked, and cut across (where the arm holes are) to the other side.

Make sure you iron the fabric now, before you do anymore cutting or sewing. Unbutton the shirt and iron all the wrinkles out. Make sure you iron the pocket too, even though it isn't attached.


You should at this point have something that looks pretty simple to finish up.

We're going to put cases in for ribbons to tie at the shoulders. And put the pocket back on.

Lets go ahead and put the pocket back on:
Find a spot that you would like to have the pocket. I usually put mine near the bottom so there easy to put things in. Some people like to keep them in the breast.

Find a good spot, then pin your pocket in there. Sew it back on with your sewing machine.

Now, we're ready to start making those casings, and finish things up.

Serge the top of the fabric now, make sure you serge inside those armholes too.

After the entire top is serged, now it's time to take it to your sewing machine.

We're going to finish the armholes first. Roll the armholes inside to the wrong side of the fabric, and sew those down.

After your done finishing the armholes, now it's finally time to make the casing.

Take the top back to the ironing board, heat up your iron, and fold and measure down one inch, then press it with the iron.


After both sides of the casing are pressed, you can sew them down now. Just sew along where you had previously serged.


After you sew down your casing, now it's time to put in the ribbon.

Pick a ribbon that coordinates well with your fabric. I picked a white with a floral print and a little yellow in it.

Cut two equal lengths of ribbon, maybe about 2 to 3 ft each.

Attach a large safety pin in one end of the ribbon, and pull it through the casing. Do the same with the other side too.

When you have the ribbon pulled through, you can sew a little line in the middle to keep the ribbon from coming out.

Personally, I don't do that b/c I like to change up the ribbons after awhile.

When there in, take a lighter and barely torch the ends of the ribbon. This will keep the ribbon from fraying.

When you've done that, then it's time to tie up the shoulders.

You should be finished at this point... we are leaving the bottom of the dress as the original shirt.

Here is the finished product:

I hope you enjoy making your pillowcase dresses as much as I do! If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help you out!